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Trail Setter Tools - Step 1 - Find a Venue
Setting a Hash run is a great honour – and you should be proud to be involved in this noble activity. This guideline is to help with some of critical steps in setting a run 1. Find a venue As a general guideline, it is good to set bush runs in summer (where we can see where we are going) and street runs in Winter. Getting a suitable venue is the first critical step. A general observation is : • There are a range of venues – some better than others. • There is a tendency for some trail setter to use the “tried and true” venues (as it is easy) but Hashers love new venues and to discover new areas. What makes a good venue? • Open on Monday night • Are not overwhelmed with 30-35 people dropping in for a meal. This is usually fine for larger Pubs and Clubs and some restaurants. Be a little careful if everything (order taking, cooking, and serving) is being done by one person. • Has a dining area that is not already occupied by other Monday night Pub activities – eg Trivia, Karaoke etc • Accessible – a place where we can all get to. o Easy parking available – Good place for a bucket. o Near Public Transport • Please note however, that many great “Hash areas” are in inner city locations – where it may be very difficult to park. The aim here is to let the club know about these sort of issues, so that they can car-pool, catch public transport etc • Has a suitable place for a bucket. Nearby the venue but “Private” • Reasonable prices. Hashers are not after gourmet dinners – but love good value for money. Tell them we are coming ! • Once you find a venue, drop in there and talk to the bar manager, or kitchen person and let them know we are coming. They like to know the group is coming so they can plan their staff and food availability. • We don’t need any special consideration (eg they do not need to form one big table, all food does not have to be served at once etc
Trail Setter Tools - Step 2 – Get a Map
Whatever location you decide to set a run – it helps to have a map. It will help you set the run, and it is required by the Trail Master to guide and marshal the pack around your trail
Sources for maps
• Draw your own (Rabbit Style)
• Old Street Directories - Gregory’s – try the old book shops. You will find that your run usually sits in the crack or right on the edge of a page. Sometimes you have to use a photocopier to get the copied you need and to “Cut” and “Paste” them together
• Telephone book (local telephone books usually have local maps). These suffer from the same “Crack” and “Edge” issues as the Street Directories.
• Web Page Option 1 - Google Maps. Go to Google, type in the locality. When the listing comes up select “Maps” option that is right under the search box.
o You have options to
▪ Zoom in and Out, Pan across
▪ See Street view OR Satellite View
• Web Page Option 2 - Street Directory website – streetdirectory.com.au. This works similarly to Google maps – but has more information about local lanes and alleys and presents the street information more clearly.
Copying and Editing the Map
Once you find a suitable are on the web – the issue is how you can get a copy of this map on a piece of paper.
a) Copying the map.
The easiest way to do this is by using the “Print Screen” command to capture a picture of whatever you see on the screen.
• Centre your view on the map area you want
• Press “Ctrl” and “Prnt Scrn” simultaneously – to capture what is on your screen as a “Picture”
• Then open a blank Word Document or Powerpoint Presentation, right click and Select “Paste”.
b) Editing the Map Picture
When you paste the “Screen Picture” on your new file – it will contain a lot of information that you don’t want and will not be the right size. It needs editing.
• Click on the Picture
• Select “Picture Format” (from the top level drop down menus)
• Select “Crop” (to the far right of the screen) – and a series of Editing Bars will appear around the Picture
• Grab onto one of these bars and push it “in and out” to edit the picture and make it the right size.
• When you are happy – head back to the “Crop” option – and Press “Crop” again. The picture will now be displayed as the size you edited.
Trail Setter Tools - Step 2 – Get a Map
A great dunny read coming your way again….
Contributions to: [email protected] Trash: 1721
• You can change the size of the picture – but grabbing any of the handles that surround it. (an easy way to enlarge or reduce the size of the picture)
c) Extra Random tips
• Choose your paper orientation (Layout – Orientation – Portrait / Landscape) to best fir your map
• You may have to merge “map pictures”. In this case
o Select the first picture
o Right click
o Wrap text
o Select “Through”
o Now you should be able to move this picture around – in front of the other one
• To save any combing pictures
o Select them all.
o Right Click
o Group / Group
Now save your file (with the picture map) and you are ready to start planning your trail
Sources for maps
• Draw your own (Rabbit Style)
• Old Street Directories - Gregory’s – try the old book shops. You will find that your run usually sits in the crack or right on the edge of a page. Sometimes you have to use a photocopier to get the copied you need and to “Cut” and “Paste” them together
• Telephone book (local telephone books usually have local maps). These suffer from the same “Crack” and “Edge” issues as the Street Directories.
• Web Page Option 1 - Google Maps. Go to Google, type in the locality. When the listing comes up select “Maps” option that is right under the search box.
o You have options to
▪ Zoom in and Out, Pan across
▪ See Street view OR Satellite View
• Web Page Option 2 - Street Directory website – streetdirectory.com.au. This works similarly to Google maps – but has more information about local lanes and alleys and presents the street information more clearly.
Copying and Editing the Map
Once you find a suitable are on the web – the issue is how you can get a copy of this map on a piece of paper.
a) Copying the map.
The easiest way to do this is by using the “Print Screen” command to capture a picture of whatever you see on the screen.
• Centre your view on the map area you want
• Press “Ctrl” and “Prnt Scrn” simultaneously – to capture what is on your screen as a “Picture”
• Then open a blank Word Document or Powerpoint Presentation, right click and Select “Paste”.
b) Editing the Map Picture
When you paste the “Screen Picture” on your new file – it will contain a lot of information that you don’t want and will not be the right size. It needs editing.
• Click on the Picture
• Select “Picture Format” (from the top level drop down menus)
• Select “Crop” (to the far right of the screen) – and a series of Editing Bars will appear around the Picture
• Grab onto one of these bars and push it “in and out” to edit the picture and make it the right size.
• When you are happy – head back to the “Crop” option – and Press “Crop” again. The picture will now be displayed as the size you edited.
Trail Setter Tools - Step 2 – Get a Map
A great dunny read coming your way again….
Contributions to: [email protected] Trash: 1721
• You can change the size of the picture – but grabbing any of the handles that surround it. (an easy way to enlarge or reduce the size of the picture)
c) Extra Random tips
• Choose your paper orientation (Layout – Orientation – Portrait / Landscape) to best fir your map
• You may have to merge “map pictures”. In this case
o Select the first picture
o Right click
o Wrap text
o Select “Through”
o Now you should be able to move this picture around – in front of the other one
• To save any combing pictures
o Select them all.
o Right Click
o Group / Group
Now save your file (with the picture map) and you are ready to start planning your trail
Trail Setter Tools - Step 3 – Working out the Trail Distance
Getting the approximate length of a trail can be a challenging question. The aim is to set a run that is approximately 6km in length – so it takes 45 mins to an hour.
How can you do this ?
• If it is a street run – you can drive around and measure on your odometer
• If you have a map (and you know its scale) you can measure around your intended course
• Ask someone to measure it for you
Some web tools that may be of use
a) Googleearth (different to Google maps) (week 1)
Trail Setter Tools - Step 3 – Working out the Trail Distance
A great dunny read coming your way again….
Contributions to: [email protected] Trash: 1722
b) GMaps Pedometer – Next week
Steps for Googlearth
• Make sure you have Googleearth on your computer – otherwise load it up (its free)
• Search for your locality and zoom in to the approximate location for the start of the run. (It is better to have this location on the screen before you start)
• Go to the top Menu bar and select either “Add” Path or click the icon (at the top)
• A couple of things happen now
o A pop up box appears which allows to you to name your
path, select a colour for your path, and the width of the pen used, and also (on a neighbouring tab) select to measure in miles / kilometres.
o The mouse symbol changes to a square. You will notice that if you click anywhere on screen – it will draw a path. Try drawing a path around the neighbourhood. While you are doing this – check the dialogue box – and watch the length of the path change.
o Save your path any time – as it can be re-opened and edited. Once you have saved the path – it will be listed on the left of screen.
• Please do not worry if your initial path is not perfect – it can be changed and edited any time.
Editing the path
To edit the path – right click on the path and select “Properties” and the map will open at your last location. This is not always straightforward – and takes a little practice – but it is worthwhile. If you get into a complete mess - just cancel the editing and go back and start again.
You will notice that a series of dots (vertices) have been drawn with a line between them
• You can move a vertice by left clicking on it and dragging it to a new location
• You can add a vertice – by right-clicking on any line (between two vertices) and select “add”. This is a handy way to add extra distance to your trail. If you look at the “measurements” tab on the dialogue box – you will see the length of the trail change
• You can delete a vertice – by selecting it and just right clicking. This can be tricky at times – as the software may delete the point that is in front or behind your point. Trial and error will help you here.
The path can be saved at any time – and it is recommended to save regularly. By working with the Googlearth tool – you can easily measure the length of your planned run, and can lengthen or shorten the run as required.
How can you do this ?
• If it is a street run – you can drive around and measure on your odometer
• If you have a map (and you know its scale) you can measure around your intended course
• Ask someone to measure it for you
Some web tools that may be of use
a) Googleearth (different to Google maps) (week 1)
Trail Setter Tools - Step 3 – Working out the Trail Distance
A great dunny read coming your way again….
Contributions to: [email protected] Trash: 1722
b) GMaps Pedometer – Next week
Steps for Googlearth
• Make sure you have Googleearth on your computer – otherwise load it up (its free)
• Search for your locality and zoom in to the approximate location for the start of the run. (It is better to have this location on the screen before you start)
• Go to the top Menu bar and select either “Add” Path or click the icon (at the top)
• A couple of things happen now
o A pop up box appears which allows to you to name your
path, select a colour for your path, and the width of the pen used, and also (on a neighbouring tab) select to measure in miles / kilometres.
o The mouse symbol changes to a square. You will notice that if you click anywhere on screen – it will draw a path. Try drawing a path around the neighbourhood. While you are doing this – check the dialogue box – and watch the length of the path change.
o Save your path any time – as it can be re-opened and edited. Once you have saved the path – it will be listed on the left of screen.
• Please do not worry if your initial path is not perfect – it can be changed and edited any time.
Editing the path
To edit the path – right click on the path and select “Properties” and the map will open at your last location. This is not always straightforward – and takes a little practice – but it is worthwhile. If you get into a complete mess - just cancel the editing and go back and start again.
You will notice that a series of dots (vertices) have been drawn with a line between them
• You can move a vertice by left clicking on it and dragging it to a new location
• You can add a vertice – by right-clicking on any line (between two vertices) and select “add”. This is a handy way to add extra distance to your trail. If you look at the “measurements” tab on the dialogue box – you will see the length of the trail change
• You can delete a vertice – by selecting it and just right clicking. This can be tricky at times – as the software may delete the point that is in front or behind your point. Trial and error will help you here.
The path can be saved at any time – and it is recommended to save regularly. By working with the Googlearth tool – you can easily measure the length of your planned run, and can lengthen or shorten the run as required.
Trail Setter Tools - Step 4 – Garnishing the run with Checks and On-backs
We now have a map and know the length of the trail (about 6km) – so how to we make it a great hash trail? A great hash trail provides a good work-out for all involved – both slow and fast. The ideal hash trail keeps the pack together. This is quite a challenge considering that we have a range of fast runners, slow runners and walkers. How can we do this ?? The Hash Gods have gifted us a couple of tools to use to keep the pack together – the “Check” and the “On-back”. The “Check” The check is placed on trail – and indicates to the pack that the trail can head off in any direction from that check. The front runners find it first, and their job is to start looking for trail. They head off right and left, down alleys and lanes looking for the trail markings. While they are actively doing this, the slow runners and walkers are making their way to the check. If they arrive, and trail has not yet been found – they can join the search. Someone will eventually find the trail and call the pack “on”. All the far-flung front runners will return to the check and head off in the right direction, while the plodding back-markers will continue their slow journey on trail. It is usual to set about 6 checks on each run – but please consider this a rough guide that can be varied as required. The distance from the check to the “on” trail will vary depending on the size of the pack the speed of the runners, and the time of day. In summer – the trail marking can be further away from the check than in winter in the dark. With this in mind – what are some good tips for setting a check? • At a place where there are lots of trail options – alleys, roads, lanes etc • After a set of traffic lights – so one group that has crossed early can start looking. This allows the back markers to cross in safety • Can be placed at intervals along a straight reach – just to slow the front runners. So, if you need to take the pack 1km along a road, place a check at all the T junctions to keep them guessing. The “On-back” The on-back is a great tool for reining in the front-runners and getting them to return to the pack. Pack runners usually do not expect on-backs – as they are hard to set, and the front-runners think that hares are lazy. On-backs are painful to set – as you have to set the trail along a route that is a dead-end. This means the hare also has to return to the location where the trail turns off. So, it is a bit of work – but keep in mind this tool works beautifully to stop the front runners stretching the pack out. You should plan to set about 6 “on-backs” on the run – mixing them up with the checks. Some good places to set “on-backs” are • Any location on trail where the pack could be stretched out (Eg. after long stretches where there has been no opportunity to hold the pack back). Trail Setter Tools - Step 4 – Garnishing the run with Checks and On-backs A great dunny read coming your way again…. Contributions to: [email protected] Trash: 1724 • It is good to set 2 or 3 in a row. Many front runners do not expect a check, and struggle to imagine any hare setting 2 (or 3) on-backs – it can really befuddle them • After a set of lights – while the front runners are heading in the wrong direction, the pack can catch up and cross the road in safety. Once you have your map and approximate trail (about 6km), look at your map and consider good places for your checks and on-backs. The best place to set them, is where the front runners least expect – as this keeps everyone guessing. • Try to avoid placing checks in locations to close to where the future-trail is. Imagine if one of the front runners starts checking and finds another part of your trail. They will unwittingly call the pack on and short-cut your trail. • Good practice is to point “on-backs” outwards from the trail circuit – so the only option for the front-runners is to come back to the trail.